Doussot-Rollet Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Grands Picotins 2017

Domaine Dussot-Rollet is a tiny, 4.75-hectare Burgundy estate whose wines are being made by Thomas Troussard, a young and talented winemaker, and son-in-law of the owner. The estate is working towards HVE certification (the highest French environmental certification), with no weedkillers used and treatments against disease only when strictly necessary. The vines are old; ranging from 40-95 years. A maximum of 15% new French oak is used across the range, and the wines released 2 years after harvest. The vineyards cover a range of sites in the Côte de Beaune, which, in skilled hands such as these, can offer better value than the more famous villages. The wines are precisely made, forward and succulent, drinking well in youth but with the capacity to age for up to a decade from release. The pricing remains relatively accessible in the context of Burgundy.

The Savigny-lès-Beaune Rouge Les Grands Picotins is Pinot Noir from 0.5 ha of 95-year-old vines, offering up a high-toned, meaty nose: hints of truffle atop raspberry and dark cherry fruit. Some good density here, with compact, quite muscular tannins, with the intensity from the old vines quite apparent. This is already impressive and will get better and better.